We returned several days ago from our first snorkeling vacation in Bonaire and I am still dreaming every night about the hours I spent under the clear water of that special place. We were fascinated not only by the new things we saw, but by the variety of widely diverse venues available on a relatively small island -- each one offering a totally different underwater (and shore) experience.

It was hard to know where to start. Our criteria were ease of entry and exit -- I'm not that spry and we both have bad backs -- shade, and safety (I was paranoid about theft of prescription sunglasses etc. after possibly too much lurking on BT!) We wound up snorkeling Donkey/Windsock; Pink Beach; Bachelor's Beach; the Plaza; Buddy Dive; Lac Bay; Andrea I & II; Klein Bonaire and Wayaka II.

The first few days we were there were exceptionally windy, making for quite rough conditions at our "beginner spots" of Donkey/Windsock and Pink Beach. Patrick was fine with it, but it took me a few days to calm down, get used to being in the water again, relax, and stop lifting my head out of the water in case someone was making off with my new Tevas!

Highlights:

The "absolutely huge" spotted eagle ray that Patrick saw, and the small stingray that we both saw -- indeed almost stood on -- at Bachelor's. (Stashed our stuff behind the stairs.)

The large bluespotted cornet fish and giant tarpon at Buddy Dive.

The peacock flounder at Bachelor's and Buddy.

The dolphin, turtles and queen angelfish at Klein Bonaire. (Though hated the invisible jelly fish and their miserable stings.)

The scrawled filefish at Pink.

The very big porcupinefish well south of the Tipsy Seagull at the Plaza (a very rewarding place, and not only for the snorkeling. We really enjoyed spending a comfortable couple of days on the Plaza's wide sandy beach and found it surprisingly quiet and not crowded at all).
The squid and honeycomb cowfish and eels at the Plaza.

Parrots and palapas at Andrea I; (the entry was too hard for me, but Patrick liked it. Luckily we stopped there on the way back from Klein Bonaire and enjoyed the site from boat entry -- lots of interesting coral.)

The whole experience of snorkeling behind the reef at Lac Bay, in shallow, crystal water with beautiful, colorful baby fish of many species.

And definitely the utterly magic Wayaka II in the Park -- a tiny, sandy cove with gorgeous setting, unspoiled coral and lots of fish. We were lucky to be the only people there, because there really is only room for one group at a time. I saw a big barracuda, gigantic parrot fish, angel fish, butterfly fish and lots more. On shore we saw a striated heron and -- get this -- a flamingo flying by with its neck in a most improbable crook. I started to wonder if there had been something in the coffee! It was an unforgettable day.

Indeed, it was an unforgettable trip, one we look forward to repeating, probably next year.

I so enjoyed reading your snorkeling experience!! I just drifted away with your delightful descriptions!

Sounds wonderful, I can just picture the water, the sun...

Elizabeth -

Thank you for taking time to compile and post your report. All of us Bonaire snorkelers can identify with your excitement and dreams.

For the sake of perspective, might we know where else y'all have snorkeled and how your Bonaire experience compared.

And, would you be able to give us some specific directions to Wayaka II?

You are among several who have filed wonderful reports from there, but it is not on any maps that we have seen. We know how to enter and circumvent the park, so perhaps that will make your directions a bit easier.

Final question: have the Thompsons scheduled their return trip yet? :-)

Charles Poteet
Dallas

Thank you everyone for your nice responses. Charles, we have snorkeled previously a number of times in Tortola, Virgin Gorda and St John in the British and US Virgin Isles; down the Yucatan Peninsula as far as Tulum; and a couple of times off Ambergris Caye in Belize.

The Virgin Islands are unfortunately pretty spoiled now, Tortola particularly, compared to 15 years ago -- hurricane damage, global warming, unchecked local fishing, increased tourism, all these things seem to play a part.

Hol Chan, the Marine Reserve off Ambergris, is absolutely wonderful, but can only be accessed by boat, with a guide. So you have about an hour or so in the water, then pile in the boat and return.

The thing we liked about Bonaire was the choice of venue --from tame to pretty wild; the way we could be independent; and the fact that every time we were in the water we saw at least one really interesting, somewhat rare thing -- even at public or resort beaches. (Although the only things we had never seen before were the bluespotted cornet fish and the scrawled filefish. We actually had a much better "turtle time" in St John.)

Also, I can't tell you how much we enjoyed the birds. Belize was billed as bird central, and just does not compare to Bonaire, we thought.

You are right about Wayaka II -- it does not appear on most maps, but is shown on the one they hand out as you enter the park. We asked the gate-person where the snorkeling was, and Wayaka was his recommendation. We took the so-called "short route". You come to Wayakas I thru III not long after Playa Funchi (billed as great snorkeling, and possibly so, but would have killed me to get in! Not to mention out.) and before Boka Slagbaai. (We were glad we did not count on going in here, as massive construction/ reconstruction is presently taking place, making it not a very pleasant destination.)

Of the three, we thought W.II looked best -- down a new and quite sturdy stair, to a sandy cove with a small cave and very easy access. It is not a big place, though. As we were preparing to leave, a party of 4 or 5 young Dutch swimmers arrived -- that's how I know it's a one group location!

Although we haven't done planning for next year yet, I wouldn't be surprised if Bonaire -- or Bon-aye-ree, as the American Eagle flight attendant called it -- was in our future.

Elizabeth -

Thank you for taking time to give us a perspective on Bonaire vs. your other snorkeling experiences.

We, too, have snorkeled Virgin Gorda and St. John. While we enjoyed both, we would have to confess that they don't hold a candle to Bonaire for variety of marine life, variety of snorkeling options, nor for uniqueness of island ambience. Bonaire is just a very different culture; one that is hard to explain without experiencing it.

Your observations on the bird life are merited. I think that few folks realize what diverse and special birding is available on Flamingo Island. I think there's no question you could spend an entire day on land in the park birding and feel as if your time was more than rewarded.

And, thank you for the additional directions to Wayaka II. We had not realized it actually comes after Playa Funchi (assuming you are going counter-clockwise) on the circuit, so your directions are of great assistance.

When your planning for next year does come around, we do hope Bonaire is on the calendar...it's on ours!

Charles Poteet
Dallas