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Bonaire Photography & Videography: TTL vs Manual Flash Level Control
Bonaire Talk: Bonaire Photography & Videography: Archives: Archives 2008: TTL vs Manual Flash Level Control
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2442) on Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 10:31 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

well, the popup flash on my new D300 does not clear the sigma 10-20mm lens on it...i do have an old SB-15 speedlight (non-TTL) so i had to figure out how to use it...

observations:

Nikon TTL does work (compared to a non compensated manual flash), at least comes close a lot of the time. For the most part i feel this was true with the Ikelite DS strobes too - did a pretty good job...

The D300 has flash level compensation (as does the Ikelite housing for a D300) and if using flash in manual control one can cut/increase the flash level for a better exposure...i had to use -3.0 (set on the camera) for the SB-15 - both macro and wide angle (both very close range) with shutter 1/250 and f >11 (wide) f>32 macro...

previous results seem to point to a frequent slight underexposure with TTL shooting underwater (especially daytime vs nightime - an ambient light issue)...it seems like the reasonable next test method would be go with the TTL control and add some flash exposure value (up to +1.0)

hard to say here...not reasonable to use the camera in the housing with external strobes out of water, so have to test with a speedlight (mounted in a more certain position than a strobe arm might end up)...and if one is guessing anyway then maybe manual control with a manual flash ev controller (built into the Ikelite D300 housing) is the way to go (turn down the power if you are close:-))

so i'm defintely thinking TTL with some compensation...else manual at about half power:-)



 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By gregg nixon (New BonaireTalk Poster - Post #5) on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 6:12 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

Are you using high-speed sync when shooting 1/250 ? Typically, the flash output is lower in high-speed sync mode, to allow for a faster recycle rate, so that may be the cause of the underexposure.

Maybe.

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2444) on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 6:09 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

gregg,

the underexposed TTL stuff was done on my D50 and the shutter was set at 1/60 or 1/125...so was not high speed - the D300 has a setting that sounds similar to high-speed (1/320) but have not tried that...

not positioning the strobe precisely i think may be part of the problem...

bottom line though is between the flash level control features on the D300 camera and the Ikelite housing i should have enough EASY control of flash level...

spongebob

well, my eyes did come out hazel
(i need a better looking model) :-)



 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2445) on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 7:21 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

ok...the "truth"

football_camera_weekend_coming_up_woo_hoo

:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By gregg nixon (New BonaireTalk Poster - Post #7) on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 7:25 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

I'm not familiar with the SB-15 ... does that have a zoom head on it ? There appears to be vignetting on that last shot.

Otherwise, the exposure looks good in the center of the image considering the number of dark objects.


 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2451) on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 5:54 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

ok...tonite we are playing with control points in nikon's capture nx...tried to "fix" the overexposed shell of this turtle...hmmmm...may have to resort to reading the instructions

before
after

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2452) on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 6:44 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

greg,

the SB-15 is an old non TTL speedlight that i use with a 10-20mm wide angle lens (instead of using the popup flash that does not "clear" the lens housing) - the speedlight just is not wide enough for the lens...

that exercise was just to get a feel for setting flash level if not using TTL for flash level control...

as far as control points are concerned - guess one still can not correct an over exposure...

the software tool kit is pretty complete now...Photoshop Lightroom on the front end for import(RAW) and folder management ...Photoshop CS2 and Nikon Capture NX for editing...back into Lightroom for web gallery generation...

yup, making something simple not so simple:-)



 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian Back in March (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #3498) on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 2:44 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

I bought the Sea&Sea TTL convertor and it flooded on the first dive (external to the housing) the replacement has arrived and I look forward to seeing how it works in March. I have twin YS110s.

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2453) on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 6:09 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

more on capture nx control points:

1. the "black" control point seems to be like adding a photo grey layer to an existing photo - yields an apparent higher contrast, more "studio like" picture

2. the "neutral" control point allows the overall "cast" (white balance i guess) to be based on a particular point in the original photo - just move the control point around in the picture until the right (desired) cast is obtained...

3. the "color" control points are good for changing a portion of a picture - a somewhat overexposed spot can be reduced a bit, the color changed, not quite as easy to use as one of the above control points...

4. the "white" control points do not seem all that useful at this time...

without bothering to post more samples i did get a somewhat greenish queen angel fish to appear more blue - nice - use a neutral control point for that...and again you can use a black control point too but it does sort of underexpose the background a bit so it may not be necessarily what you want (i just happen to like that effect)...

seems a lot easier than trying to figure out photoshop layers:-)

whatever,

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2454) on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 6:47 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

the housing was just delivered...need to charge up a DS-125 battery and test TTL (plus or minus) with the housing controls:-)

i get a good enough picture then control points can become irrelavent:-)

woo hoo:-)




 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2455) on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 9:45 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

still here...

fired up the strobe (in the housing to test the flash level control)...hard to tell how much control was there, no LEDs for the individual levels (like the D50 housing) but the control is easier...i could reduce the flash level but not increase it which must mean TTL can get full output from the strobe?

anyway, my funky TV remote...

nasty_remote

saved as jpg from capture nx...figured out that JPGs "save for web" in photoshop with more color than do .TIFs...

later,

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2458) on Friday, January 18, 2008 - 7:27 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

more testing...

with +1.0EV Flash Compensation on camera AND +1.0EV Flash Compensation on housing i am still not coming close to burning anything...

f22/60...

gong


well, i could be in a flash max situation and i still have a second strobe for additional flash compensation - still too early to tell if i have sufficient control of flash level yet...

oh well,

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2460) on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 4:49 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

did another capture nx control point exercise on a queen angel, used a black, a neutral, and a color control point...when using a neutral point one has to be able to locate an appropriate point in the original photo - if one really does not exist then you need to use the color control point to affect the color change...

before
after

been checking airfares...mid april looks good:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2461) on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 6:08 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

back to flash level compensation...capture nx reports BOTH from the camera setting AND the housing setting, indicating the total flash compensation and if manual flash is selected on the housing then reports the level of manual flash...

significant to me 'cause now i know the knob works

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2464) on Sunday, January 20, 2008 - 3:14 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

furthur ventures...

the addition of the second strobe provided enough additional light to make flash compensation actually work...good:-)

a little more editing in capture nx...almost should go back and redo the gallery (NOT) :-)

urchin1
urchin2
urchin3

:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Myers (Experienced BonaireTalker - Post #552) on Sunday, January 20, 2008 - 10:48 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

The one next to last is sharp as a tack! What strobe combo are you using? I't thinking of trying to add an existing DS50 as fill flash for my DS125. Your thoughts on that?

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...packing now! (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2467) on Sunday, January 20, 2008 - 12:26 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

ron,

that's capture nx applying camera specific "corrections" to the raw photo...along with a couple of well placed control points...

capture nx does some stuff:-)

i use a DS125 and a DS50 (with slave)...what i found out this weekend was that the camera pretty much was getting full flash output out of the DS125 at F22/60 - attempts to increase flash level using flash compensation dials were failing (could only reduce the flash). when i added the DS50 then there was enough total flash to start compensating in the negative direction...

i would think it is good to be in the middle somewhere though maybe different camera settings would put you in the middle with just the DS125...

have to also think that using two strobes is going to result in some "creative" lighting situations - something to play with anyway:-)

add the strobe:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2469) on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 - 12:53 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

hours and hours and hours looking at this stuff...well, don't want to miss anything

a blow up of some more coral? and another edit of a queen angel...

polyps
queenie

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian Back in March (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #3508) on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 - 3:14 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

Lets keep the theme

Queen Angel Habitat Photo Comp entry

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian Back in March (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #3509) on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 - 3:29 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

The last one was by Sue with the D50, one more QA

Queen Angel D70

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2470) on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 - 5:39 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

nice pics:-)

the D50 is a great camera...i'm hoping i get even better results with my new D300 (and slew of editing programs)

so far all i've got are larger files

does anyone need 14 bit uncompressed RAW??? guess we will find out



:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2473) on Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 6:57 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

another edit...a black control point (essentially a black layer)added and a red-eye point (default size) dropped on all the fish eyes...

creoles

whatever,

:-)



 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2476) on Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 4:31 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

wide angle/dual strobes(DS125, 50)

don't think 10mm is reasonable even with two strobes...at F11 max flash required, pictures get warm real fast if underexposed...

tabletop

so, probably other than a few over/under, maybe a few with a filter, i'm just gonna go back to the Nikkor 20mm - the heck with any serious 10mm flash stuff...

also,from the reflections i saw today, the DS125 is like 3x as strong as the D50...

FYI

:-)


 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2478) on Sunday, January 27, 2008 - 2:31 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

another look at 10mm (actually 11mm)...

carls_hill

less bubbles/backscatter would help maybe and maybe a stronger secondary strobe...so hard to tell...

20mm is safer:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Extraordinary BonaireTalker - Post #2492) on Saturday, February 2, 2008 - 12:35 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

one more...can't seem to stop playing;)

goby

you can actually make out the scales...

that was the D50...10 weeks and we get to try the D300:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2506) on Friday, February 8, 2008 - 8:02 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

slow nite...

interesting
glamorous

may just be all about the system...the camera, the housing, the strobes, the software...

i think we got one:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2509) on Saturday, February 9, 2008 - 7:17 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

more research...

wide angle and TTL problems??? (ambient light in the "negative space" of a wide angle frame messes up TTL) maybe...but the recommendation is two equal power strobes each with manual flash level control...so it sounds like time to upgrade the DS50 to a DS125 and get a manual controller for it...it would be just the DS125 head, i have the charger and arm, and the manual controller to match the built in one on the housing for the first strobe...can exchange battery packs, have a backup for the main strobe and can still use the DS50...

so, maybe something for me to think about:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2510) on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 1:36 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

still at it...comparing a couple of arrow crab pics...would appear that the second crab could be "talking out its butt"

arrow1
arrow2

still haven't ordered that strobe head...i really should...strobes ARE that important:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2514) on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 7:50 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

and back to the "system"...upgraded to a 266MHz CF card, new larger,higher speed hardrive in the laptop (with a "clean" OS)...no problem crunching the 25Mb + files off the D300 :-)

still need my other strobe (i guess) and another crack at some wide angle (i guess)...

laptop is faster:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2515) on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 8:17 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

the flash level and wide angle bit...again...as i read it now the problem is the ambient light in the wide angle frame can cause an OVER exposure when using TTL flash control...looking back at some photos shot in program mode with F4.0-f5.6 i can see this was often the case - especially in shallow clear water - like at La Dania's Leap, Rappel, etc...

at some point or other i think i realized that and started to shoot in aperature mode with a greater F (F8-F18) to essentially eliminate any ambient light...dual strobes would fire near full power and could light the main subject more than adequately...but that even did not always work and i do not yet know was it a case of still too much background in the shot, not enough flash, wrong shutter speed,bad strobe positioning, could still get too much backscatter...lots of issues, questions...

so, the advice apparently is (wide angle) is to manually control flash level on both strobes - probably setting the strobes at a lower power level but still adjusting F stop and maybe even shutter speed to control the amount of ambient light in the frame (certainly reduce the risk of overexposure)??? - check the LCD!!!, wide angle shots can be re taken in general...

well, again, hard to tell - just have to shoot some more:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2517) on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 6:51 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

still rambling;)

so i DID order the extra DS125 strobe head and a manual controller...for the reasons presented earlier...and then did a little accounting:-(

new camera body, new housing, a couple of CF cards, a backup strobe head and controller...$4000.00...no new lenses or ports...

out of control

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2519) on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 9:05 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

ok...another test pic...d300/20mm nikkor - 8"dome, ds125 and ds50 strobes...F11 and 1/60...way more than enough flash...turning the camera rig 90 degrees resulted in extreme overexposures so its looking like strobe placement does play a big role in determining effective flash level...shoot from the sides not over/under subject...

i_need _to_be_in_the_water

???

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2522) on Wednesday, February 13, 2008 - 8:32 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

one way to avoid the problems of TTL and wide angle flash would be to shoot at night (or at least sunset)...note that the camera "single servo focus mode - S" which is in general recommended, presents a focus lock and unless you have a focus the shutter won't operate...an aiming light might help but better at this point to change the focus mode to continuous servo "C"...

ain't_bonaire

f8, 1/60, dual both strobes (125, 50) full manual flash level with a 150W garage spot light behind me (some ambient light:-))

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2525) on Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 9:01 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

passed the laundry sink test...

housing

57 days...

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2528) on Friday, February 15, 2008 - 8:24 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

backup strobe came...so i can now remotely fire two DS125 strobes without connecting the housing and tray...bob's hacked creative lighting system;)

20mm F22 1/250 (D300) strobes slaved to popup flash...

corona

practice practice...

:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2533) on Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 8:55 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

had to test again as one strobe was not set properly...

paperwork

strobes fired OK but i really did not have sufficient 3D space to get what i was after...a little "flat"...

;)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2534) on Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 10:44 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

back to the 10-20mm (with dual DS125)

desktop

don't think the Sigma F4-F5.6 10-20mm can be pushed as much as the Nikkor F2.8 20mm (F22, 1/250) but the Sigma is sharp and gets color...

the Sigma is a whole lot more fun in general as well however the Nikkor is way more compact and can use a much smaller dome port...

maybe the Nikkor gets left home again;)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2536) on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 2:39 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

back to macro (dual DS125)

keys

looks to me that strobe position is more important than flash level compensation in setting effective flash level...get the strobes positioned so that the available flash level control is usuable(positioned such that both (+) and (-) adjustments are possible)...maybe easier said than done;)

so for sure on the next visit (55 days) we are planning:

1. night wide angle
2. park shoot
3. lots of night macros on corals
4. more wide angle in general - with/without flash

noticed that ikelite is going to a modular port system - didn't realize it when i upgraded my wide angle to the 8" dome and a port body but that's where they are headed - you get a dome port and a flat port and that's all the "glass" you need, you then buy port bodies, extenders, focus extenders to create the actual lens port...this approach eliminates the plastic i guess and some glued seems?

i don't know...maybe better to have individual ports - if you scratch a dome or flat glass then it is not usuable, regardless of the number of port bodies you have? well, the new system does seem attractive however the ports still get clamped in with those ikelite port locks and those things make me nervous;)

whatever,

55 days...





 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2555) on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 12:19 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

still not quite set...

fisheye lens???

i suppose if anybody would enjoy the perspective one can get and the in tight shooting capability it would be me;) the "knock" on a fisheye is that it "gets old" after awhile...hmmm...i don't shoot that much;) thinking the lens could make certain landscape pics particulary interesting (the park)

the Nikon 10.5mm is reasonably priced and with another port body can be used underwater in my rig...

still would have the issue with lighting but i do have enough light apparently and will just need to work on the compositions???

guess i'll just think about it;)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2561) on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 - 9:32 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

nope...talked myself out of the fisheye (for like the third time in the last couple of years)...hesitant now mostly because of whatever unknown problems shooting a fisheye underwater in a dome port with strobes may present...

so for wide angle i'm thinking:

primary - use the very boring 20mm Nikkor and a 6" dome (8" dome as a backup)

secondary - use the 10-20mm at 10mm and the 8" dome...the 6" dome for that lens is stratched up and you can not use the shade at 10mm (why it is scratched up probably) - that lens port was a total waste of money:-(

the 10mm focal length can provide enough of the desired perspective change to make certain shots more interesting though not as much so maybe as the fisheye...

so that would be that...for wide angle...use the display, check the results, adjust and reshoot as necessary i guess:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bruce (Experienced BonaireTalker - Post #319) on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 3:29 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

Bob, Thanks for the research. Sounds like you'll have plenty of wide angle with your 10-20mm and the dome. Once you get some water around the dome, that thing will really open up.

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2563) on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 5:32 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

well, if someone got anything out of all this...i got more confused than i was i think;)

i think we can say for sure:

1. dual strobes should be sufficient lighting for any shot

2. setting flash level for wide angle may be a problem (sounds like normally one will be looking at decreasing the flash output -0.7, -1.0, -1.3) and one may have to experiment some...maybe more important than the flash level is positioning the strobe(s) correctly for the wide angle shot...

macros are much easier after you figure out how to get a focus;)


 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2566) on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 5:45 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

but i STILL have 30 some rolls of old film;)

i have a nice F100...the battery holder and the M/S/C focus switch are corroded (from a near flooding a few trips back)...i can still operate the M/S/C switch however and i found a replacement battery holder online...and then to up the "cool factor" ordered the MB-15 batterypack/handle for the F100...not looking at shooting this underwater but i do have the housing (for camera use without the MB-15)...

so, the F100 makes for a somewhat more "classy" backup to my D300 than does the D50;) i think all three bodies get throwed in the bag;)

:-)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2569) on Friday, February 29, 2008 - 8:33 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

film! OMG how soon we forget;)

1. have to wait until the roll is shot (36 exposure)

2. $4.00 for a set of cut negatives - delivery and pickup too...

3. at least an hour preview and scanning the negs

4. no EXIF data included...

this pretty much sucks;)

but the F100 really feels great in your hands;)

oh well,

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2573) on Sunday, March 2, 2008 - 4:45 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

took some film in...not real happy with the results...old film? scanner hot getting hot enough? seems like i started getting results like this last time i shot film...guess i need a new roll of film and also to let them develop the negs...once anyway...

looks_like_old_film

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2574) on Sunday, March 2, 2008 - 5:26 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

another of the above...

they_still_have_4th_of_july_and_halloween_and_xmas_stuff_out

even if this setup is suspect it looks like i can still use the old? film...

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2575) on Sunday, March 2, 2008 - 6:21 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

the film scans (at this point) can still be cleaned up a bit;)

cabin_door_above

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2576) on Monday, March 3, 2008 - 12:08 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

i checked another roll from june 2006 (used camera as a backup)...it was acting up back then...again don't know if it was the film or not?

red_slave_buildings

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2579) on Monday, March 3, 2008 - 5:42 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

film again...it occurred to me that i probably didn't know much about film in the first place, my Fuji 400 print film appeared "fine" to me...kinda sounds like there is better stuff available, slower speed slide film i guess...

well, so i need to verify both that the 400 print stuff has infact expired and ought to be replaced with some pro grade slide film and then limit the shooting so i don't need a lot of rolls?

after getting that MB-15 for the F100 i want to shoot a few pics...but a few GOOD ones;)

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bruce (Experienced BonaireTalker - Post #322) on Monday, March 3, 2008 - 6:23 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

Bob, If you're getting old film developed at K-mart, those are the results! The silver oxidizes over time. Not intending to be critical but,. Yes you should shoot with a 64 or at max 100 ISO slide film! I've read somewhere that ISO 64 slide has a resolution equal to a 50 mp digital camera. Since you use your own color correction you could have that developed anywhere. Happy snapping!

 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2580) on Tuesday, March 4, 2008 - 2:27 am:     Edit PostPrint Post

not sure to what extent having the exposure comp set at -1.7 had...also not sure how long the camera had been set that way, i have never used exposure comp on that camera so it was inadvertent...

so when i get a new roll of film we will shoot with no comp and again evaluate whether or not the camera is worth taking;)

it's amazing how much/often i ignore useful info in the shooting display



 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob...no april showers) (Supreme BonaireTalker - Post #2634) on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 6:17 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

no pic but i received my Tenba large camera/laptop backpack today...loaded it up...it holds:

3 SLRs
5 Lenses
3 Strobe heads and an extra battery pack
16' laptop (will hold 17")
Speedlight
acccesories...

going to be pushing it a bit on the two carry on bags but the other carry on holds the housing, ports, and critical electronic acessories...both will fit in overheads at least...

fingers crossed:-)



 

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Angie Ohlson (BonaireTalker - Post #94) on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 7:11 pm:     Edit PostPrint Post

Bob, you can always say it's your man-bag.. and your carry-on allotment.

 


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