anyone happen to know how many of the pins in the ikelite ttl sync cord should be continuous???

there are five pins, 2 male and three female, both the outside female pins are reading "open" - one of those pins is indicated to be a firing pin and my strobe ain't firing thru the cord (is firing if i short the pins on the strobe itself)...

so, anyone care to VOM the pins on a working 4103 sync cord and let me know how many are continuous??? i hate to pay $80 for a new one if the cord ain't really broke (sure looks broke though - funny how i used it for two dive trips before realizing it wasn't working;))

whatever,

;)

Don't know Bob, but come over to the Scuba board and ask. Most likely one of the members knows and if not Ike (owner of Ikelite) is a regular member, bet he can find out for you.

http://www.scubaboard.com/index.php?s=

Herman

thanks herman,

i ordered the cable anyway...helixcamera is a good alternative source to bhphotovideo (my normal source)

i think the cable has to be bad though its hard to imagine what could have possibly happened...

one of these days (and this is like after 150 dives with the camera) i'm gonna learn to use the strobe;)

When you get the new one, why not ohm it out and draw yourself a schematic. At least you will know.

This link should hold the answer to your question:

http://www.ikelite.com/faq/faq_syncwiring.html

hth,
kbob

bob,

yep, maybe re-enforces what i suspected - one of my open pins is simply not connected and the other open pin is the firing pin - bad sync cord...

thanks a bunch

sync cord was bad...



i'm gonna get this flash stuff down before next trip, though it looks like the F100 is just gonna kick butt;) (posted pic from the old sony - f5.6/200 - don't have the housing/port yet for the f100)

whatever,

and thanks bob for the additional flash info;)

the problems continue...does anyone have a feeling as to how sensitive the slave sensor is in an ikelite housing??? looks to me like i am having a problem with the strobe triggering in just bright sunlight...unless the strobe is leaking and causing a short (i'm about to take the strobe over to the laundry sink)...

then again, another reason to go ahead and get a housing setup that doesn't use a slave (like for my F100;))

geez...

answered my own question...must be a little on the sensitive side, a bic lighter, then the bathroom light switch both can trigger the slave...i suspect the sun flashing in the water has caused this numerous times in the past...yeah i know - why is the flash on at the surface anyway?

gonna be nice to get back to real, dependable ttl flash;)

speedlight here...sync cord and strobe next...



this macro lens could be a bit of a challenge underwater;)

;)

(my brother worked SO hard attempting to get a blue one;))

another with speedlight (my 20 year old SB-15)...
camera in P (auto), macro lens, camera dropped to f5.6 1/60...was about 3 ft away...speedlight "nuked" it ;)

the thought (hope) is the DS-125 will behave as well;)



(the blue is the right color;))

i still need something to shoot;)



this pic is with the f100/105mm macro in the ikelite slr housing with the ds-125 strobe attached - pretty much perfect with respect to lighting and exposure...

also, i am scanning the negs - the scanner has 4000dpi actual resolution, the scan area is 1.5" by 1.0' - that's 6000 by 4000 pixels or 24 megapixels i think - so there - by film camera becomes a 24 mrgapixel digital with a little extra effort

i really do need to get out and shoot;)

another from zero depth of field land ;)



both my macro and wide angle will do this...probably gonna miss a few shots underwater though ;(

but the ones i do get...