We got back just a few weeks ago and already I'm dying to return! First, I'll admit I've been lurking in this newsgroup ever since I scheduled my trip last winter and I'm really grateful for all the great information, since I'd never been to Bonaire. The island truly is spectacular. I traveled with a group from Illinois and was truly challenged when the question was floated around the group: "Wouldn't you want to live here?" My answer was a half-hearted 'No' because I plan my dive vacations as new adventures and Bonaire stands in such stark contrast to everyday life that the memories are now very sharply etched and treasured in my mind. They serve as a great escape whenever I call them up! We stayed at Lions Dive Hotel and dove with Bon Bini and had a great time. From other postings, I can tell there are more "luxurious" accomodations on the island. But, there were no prima donnas in our group so schlepping tanks to shore dives and shuttling over to the marina to catch the boats was not a problem. We just wanted to dive as much as we could. I can see how things will only improve once the repairs to the piers and oceanfront facilities are complete. The hotel, pool and rooms were perfect for our needs: lots of space, close to the water and our own little tropical oasis (even if the irrigation is from the "pungent" septic tank). My girlfriend and I work for an environmental firm in the U.S. and were more impressed with the efficient use of the resources. I signed up for six morning boat dives and am really glad I did. Five times we went out to Klein Bonaire (Rockpile, Captain Don's, Forest, Sampler, Bonaventure) and were delighted every time with some new critter or spectacular underwater vista. I paired up with a brand-new diver who's last dive was in a midwest quarry, and she really reminded me of how incredible it feels just to share the underwater environment with all its residents. We followed a smaller sea turtle around during one dive and I (as always) felt so clumsy underwater compared to him. My buddy taught me some American Sign Language so we could communicate better. Most used: "beautiful". Sure, there's lots of coral rubble from the waves near shore, but nature is pretty resilient and most of the reefs below 30 feet looked untouched, especially on Klein Bonaire. What did we see? Thanks to our guides, a seahorse at Captain Don's, stonefish, several different eels, a Volkswagen-sized sea turtle hanging under a ledge and lots of strange, nocturnal critters under Town Pier. (If I did it again, I'd go to Town Pier not at dusk but long after dark when there's fewer divers stirring up the bottom and no one throwing fresh lobster carcasses on top of us!). A couple of night dives just off Buddy Dive's new pier netted us octopus, squid, slipper lobster and the most audacious tarpon I've encountered since meeting the school in Grand Cayman that gets fed off the shore near Sunset House. We did lots of shore dives too. Ol' Blue (twice), Karpata, Pink Beach, Invisibles, Alice in Wonderland, and 1,000 steps (our group had four young college/high school guys out to demonstrate their stamina, so tanks magically materialized on the sand! Nice). Bring lots of fresh water for drinking and rinsing on your shore dives! On our last day, we dove Barcadera from the boat and daydreamed about timesharing some of the beautiful houses on the shore. I was wondering if my Lycra skin would be enough to stay warm and it was, at least for late June. I have to admit to behaving like a reptile though, after 2-3 day dives. I relaxed by the pool and soaked up sun energy for the next day! One thing about divers, they generally know better than to test the sun by not using sunscreen. I did see one or two folks though whose vacations were marred by carrying tanks and equipment bags on sunburned shoulders! Trust me, you'll get tan enough without taking risks! We ate at Del Laman, ZeeZicht (conch chowder to die for!) and Dock of the Bay during the week. I loved the slipper lobster at Del Laman but still hesitate when I know that dinner could be one of the critters I had met hours earlier! Otherwise, we grabbed breakfast and lunch from our condo kitchen. My buddy remarked that this was the first vacation she actually felt herself losing weight, since most of the time we focused on diving and simply ate for fuel! What I learned: There's so much more to the island than what's in the brochures. I enjoyed learning about Bonaire's day-to-day culture through my new buddy who is a Spanish professor and elicited smiles when she spoke to shopkeepers and waiters. I had read the threads in this newsgroup about crime and struggles with the central government, so I was paying attention when we drove through the small towns, reading the newspaper and walking around. I enjoyed hearing all the personal stories from the divemasters and other islanders. Now the appeals to keep Bonaire safe, environmentally sound and preserve the marine park have more meaning for me and are something I'll support, even if I never make it back to the island. I highly recommend the new Air Jamaica service. We flew direct from Chicago to Montego Bay and then to Bonaire. The worst part was the waits on the tarmac with no air conditioning. Thanks again, everyone, for the great conversation on this newsgroup. I'll keep lurking and enjoying the news of all the trips to come and scheming to get back soon! |