Day Eight: 06-10-02
I rose early as is my custom, and was able to slip out without waking Carol. My boat dive package had run its course, so I had the morning to myself. I decided to give Maiky Snack one more try, starting at the big yellow church in Kralendyk and following the verbal directions I had been given by the divemaster. South on Kaya Niki Boko past La Portugesa, past the little league field, left at the fork…then I saw a small yellow sign. It was easy to understand how we had missed it on our first try. Slowing, I followed the dirt road until I saw a ranch gate decorated with oversized dice (that’s right, dice) and took the next left. From that turn, I saw no indication that I was on the way to anything more than the other side of the island until I came to a sort of clearing. There, off to the right, was a low green-painted building, and past it a modest house. I had found it. The hour was much too early to stop for a visit, so I circled and followed my route in reverse back to town.
I picked up fresh pastry at Cultimara and returned to the Plaza to make coffee and tell Carol the good news.
After a shower and a look at the day’s latest headlines, we went into town for a quick check of shopping possibilities, then out to Maiky Snack for an early lunch. The proprietor called out the lady of the house, who told us what was on the day’s menu. I chose the goat soup, my wife conservatively settled on the chicken. As our food was being prepared, we sat and talked in the pleasant shade as goats and chickens, unaware of their roles in future lunches, meandered about the yard. The soup was tasty and full of tender meat still on the neckbones, which I carefully worked over while Carol enjoyed pan-sauteed chicken with rice and fresh vegetables. As we dined, a few locals arrived for lunch and conversation. The atmosphere was friendly and casual, and we lingered a while, soaking up a last bit of backcountry flavor before heading back to town.
Back at the Plaza, we changed into our swimwear and walked to the beach. On the way I picked up a tank by the pool and geared up while Carol positioned her beach chair for the right mix of sun and shade. I took to the water and followed the slope straight to the familiar white sand bottom. I spent as much time as my computer would allow sitting quietly, watching the show that never fails to fascinate. The tarpon paraded past, showing their burnished sides for a moment, then disappearing down the reef in single file. The resident barracuda cruised by for a look, then returned to his station. I looked up toward the surface across a shoal of baitfish, flowing in rhythm with the movement of the water. Too soon I ran out of no-decompression time and surfaced to join my wife in a midafternoon snooze on the beach. When the shadows began to lengthen we went to the room to clean up, planning to try one of the restaurants in town. Our sunset stroll on the waterfront took on a slightly wistful air as we began to realize that our time on Bonaire was drawing to a close. We ended up at Mona Lisa. Carol ordered a fillet of beef and I had the Caribbean seafood platter. Both pegged the yummy-meter, and the fresh bread with exotic spreads made waiting for our main courses a pleasure.
I had decided that I would make no dives the next day, but could not resist one more nighttime visit to Eighteen Palms. I spent my last underwater minutes of the trip on the reef, having a good close look at the arrow crabs, cleaner shrimp and eels that populate the broken rocks and coral rubble. I was watching an anemone waving gently in a cleft when one of the copepods (or other little marine critters) attracted by my light blundered into its tentacles. With surprising speed the careless “bug” was snatched, wrapped and eaten. I continued to illuminate the area, watching the show until my air ran low and I was forced to leave the clear water of Bonaire. Back in the room, Carol and I sat up late talking and watching TV. The end of our vacation was near, but we were still having a very good time. |
By George Owens on Tuesday, July 16, 2002 - 10:32 pm: 
