PBD is here. We arrived "home" to Minnesota yesterday after our most recent trip to Bonaire. This was something like our 21st trip and we still found new places to see and things to do. Bonaire has so much depth, so much to do if a person is interested in exploring a little and trying new things. Airlines: We flew American from Minneapolis via Chicago and San Juan to Bonaire. No problems going down. We were on time and our luggage made it just fine. We had a 6 hour layover in San Juan on our way back so we toured Old San Juan, then ate lunch next to the beach a the El San Juan Hotel (10 min. from the airport). We made it back to Minneapolis just fine...but one of our bags is missing...should show up today...or, Sharon will be shopping for new shoes! Dives: Got lots of great dives in. The same old friends are on the reef, but we also had some different experiences this time. Of course there were tons of fish everywhere, but this trip we noticed many juvenile Bogas and Spotted Drums. Sharon saw a juvenile Trunkfish about the size of a dime...really cute round ball with fins. We dove Red Slave one day and saw 4 different schools of cowfish. Each school had 12 to 15 members. I'd never seen that many in a school before. We saw a few Cowfish mating...the light blue color they turn is beautiful. On the way back from Red Slave we saw a pod of about 20 dolphins. So...we slowly moved our boat a little closer and the swam with our boat for 30 minutes. We then moved our boat ahead up to the next mooring where we saw some divers just entering the water from shore. We tried to tell them that a pod of dolphins was just about to pass near them, but they thought we were asking if they needed help...so they gave the OK sign and submerged...don't think they saw the dolphins! Had a nice dive off of Klien at South Bay. There was a school of 57 Black Durgon in about 25 feet of water. I just love this fish. They look so dark, accented with a white border, until you get close and the sun lights their faces...then a full multitude of colors bloom. Other marine creatures...saw lots of squid in the shallows of Andrea I. We were spending some time in about 10 feet of water when I looked to my right and saw 37 squid. First, I've never seen THAT many squid in one location before, but even stranger is they were arranged in a pyramid with the large squid at the bottom, mediums in the middle, and really small (2") squid at the top. We saw a few Hawksbill Turtles, many Arrow Crabs (more than I've seen on any other trip), and lots of Lettuce Sea Slugs. Our last day..after a great lunch at Rose Inn, we snorkeled. I entered a tidal pool through a swimthrough in the reef and saw hundreds of baitfish in about 2 feet of water...also 32 Lettuce Sea Slugs...and lots of juvenile Tangs. On a dive at Red Slave we saw 28 Basket Starfish curled up for the day in different Gorgonians. This would be a great night dive...but never got to it. One of the highlights of our diving was spending time with Caren, the marine biologist owner of Sea & Discover (www.seandiscover.com). Caren and her husband Frans joined us and Jake Richter as Jake showed us the Frogfish that our late friend Tom Bartikoski was so fond of. On that dive, Caren showed us lots of cool stuff, but the best was a Pygmy Octopus. I’ve been diving since 1972 and read all the fish ID and behavior books, but couldn't believe how much Caren taught us and showed us in 45 minutes. Next time down we are going to attend one of her programs for 1/2 day. It sure is a lot more fun diving when you know what things are, what they are doing, and why. Yes...we found Tom's Frogfish and Jake got more great pictures and video. Right after Jake found it again, he was pointing to it and looking at Caren...when he looked back, it was in "mid-flight" from the sponge to a coral head nearby. None of us had ever seen a Frogfish "swim" before...it you can call it swimming. Visibility: Of course visibility can vary at each divesite by the hour depending on current, wind, clouds, other weather, plankton...but overall the visibility was excellent. The only site that was a little stirred up was Invisibles...still had 60' vis on this dive. Food: Had great meals at Capriccio Ristorante, Rendez Vous Restaurant and Grill, Captain Wooks (Harbour Village Marina), It Rains Fishes, and the Rose Inn in Rincon. We threw a little party for a few of our Bonaire friends and called ahead to the Rose Inn. They prepared a great family style lunch of fish (Rainbow Runner served whole), Goat, Chicken, fried Plantains, Funchi, and Rice. One our friends took the leftovers and his family had lunches for a week. We shopped at Cultimara...bakery is now in the back where the pharmacia used to be, Warehouse, Tropical Flamingo. Seems like more choices and better stock of food each time we go back. Social Gatherings: Before Tom passed away, Sharon and Tom had been planning for a 4th of July party at Tom and Wendy's home. Wendy insisted that the party must go on at her home, even though she would be back in the US. We invited a few friends, and thanks to Jake (whom we asked to invite "homeless Americans”) we had about 30 people show up...most bringing food. Ruud helped me cook steaks and chicken, Jake brought ribs and some strange Dutch wiener "Friggindelon" (or something like that), and Sharon made her mom's famous baked beans. Later that night my son and another teen from the US shot off lots of Jake's fireworks. The next morning when we went back to do a final cleanup, there was garbage (sushi in Papiementu…and you wonder why the sushi bar failed) all over the driveway. Wendy's neighbor, Theodore, came over and said Wendy's children had caused the mess. We KNOW Wendy doesn't have any children, so we thought this kindly grandfather was a little confused. We kept telling him Wendy has no children...but he insisted...and finally said "Wendy feeds them carrots in the street each morning." That was when we realized her "children" were the neighborhood donkeys. Thank you Wendy for letting all of us use your lovely house while you were gone! We were able to join about 30 people for the BT BBQ over at Jake and Linda's house. Real nice to meet more loyal BT regulars...and some new ones! Tom Bartikoski Memorial: A memorial was held for Tom at Wendy's house on July 10th. It was a great time to remember Tom as 50 to 75 people from all walks of life on Bonaire (and the US) gathered for several hours to share their memories of Tom. A table holding boards filled with photos of Tom was set up, and an article about him recently published in the University of Minnesota Journalism School magazine was on display for all to read. It talked about his outstanding success in Public Relations and his "change of life" moving to Bonaire. It was filled with excellent marine photos Tom had taken. The evening was a great balance of casual conversation, people speaking kind and loving words about Tom, and great food. Had a chance to stop by the BT dinner at Giby's Terrace for about 30 minutes last week...didn't have time to eat, but it was nice to chat with Mike Gaynor again, and make some diving plans with Bas. Yes Bas...I've got the GPS to mark those sites! Other stuff: As usual, no problems with any type of crime, and no hassles. Had a great conversation with Andre Nahr about his progress with the new dive and eco-toursim operation "Bonaire Dive & Adventure" located between Den Laman restaurant and Sand Dollar Condos. The new buildings for dive gear and education are virtually complete...and will be open soon. The pier is coming along quite well and should be operational soon. I was really impressed with the construction of this pier. First, they place HUGE rocks from shore into the sea about 20 feet. They will act a an excellent "breakwater" when wind reversals create larger than normal waves on the West coast. Next, they filled the gaps in the rocks with concrete, then put down a layer of rebar and another layer of concrete. Next is a layer with pipes for electrical and water with rebar on top and below. After this was filled with concrete another "top floor" of concrete and rebar were added. The metal posts for the pier were set "by eye" by an elderly experienced pier builder from Curaçao...his workmanship is amazing. Andre showed me where the 3 rinse tanks will be, the rinse shower, camera area, lighting for night dives, and stairs. It will be NICE! Drove up to Rincon's "lovers lane" on our way to the Rose Inn for lunch. Had never been there...but sure is worth going for the views. Not only can you get a nice look at Rincon, but also the West coast...all the way down to the salt hills and the East coast. Had 10 Flamingos fly right over the boat on a 7:00 am dive at Angel City. They were flying low and fast. Really neat to see the contrast between the bright pink/orange topside and nearly black bottom side. Now with KLM using Bonaire for direct international flights, they have increased security at the airport. The windows from the arrival area to the waiting area are fogged, and a scanner has been installed...all luggage must go through it prior to leaving the customs area. Also, upon departure American is hand-checking all bags that will not be carried on. No big deal and did not take much time at all, coming or going. No hassles by the customs people...they are looking for drugs and other contraband, not scuba gear from US tourists! One note though…we saw several people try to take conch and other types of shells home with them. These were taken…so…best to leave the shells for the next visitor! Sharon and I took windsurfing lessons at Jibe City. Great lesson followed by good success by novice sailors. This is definitely a sport we will learn. So easy to do at Lac as the water is shallow and the bottom soft when you fall! Okay..got to go..the doorbell just rang and I can see from the window our luggage is here! Scott |