Back from our first trip to Bonaire. Below is my take on the experience, and how it compares to other tropical destinations:
Flights: Major pain in the rear, but easily addressable. In order to save money, I really screwed myself. Late night drive and overnight at DFW, two US Air flights to Aruba, Bonaire Express to Bonaire. Reverse the process on the way back, plus add an overnight in Aruba as an insurance policy against Bonaire Express failing to get us to Aruba in time. Penny wise, but pound foolish. Much more relaxing to flight directly into Bonaire on a major airline. Can't wait for the new Continental route in December.

Lodging: Divi Flamingo. Pluses were the available amenities and a decent reef and dive shop on site. Minuses were the condition of the amenities in many respects. Our unit (bottom floor studio) was pretty good, my brother's (top floor studio) was a disaster. Air conditioner couldn't keep up, constant noise from the roof-mounted air conditioning units of his and other studios, TV didn't work most of the time, etc. Towards the end of the week, the entire north end of the resort and most of the studio units had a faint sewage smell, suggesting an impending utility problem. For this and other reasons, I think we will probably investigate other properties on the return trip.

Food: Very uneven. By far, Richards had both the best service and best food. Most places had acceptable lunches, but top-shelf dinners were less common. One notable feature was the general quality of service. Overall, I would characterize is as ambivalent. Not hostile or rude (with one exception at Casablanca), but not overtly hospitable either. It wouldn't stand out except that it is not the norm at other tourist-oriented locations. While chatting with some residents and ex-pats at Karel's, some were bemoaning the fall in tourism compared to a decade ago. This is one area that could help increase tourism, if in fact they want more tourists running around the island.

Diving: Coin toss. The only thing that compares to the convenience is a live-aboard, and this is a major plus. Being able to wander down to the reef at any time can't be over-estimated. Once in the water, the wildlife isn't as abundant at the Barrier Reef or Cayman, and the coral isn't as good as BVI, but I never got bored either.

Overall, it was a good learning experience, and I know how I would make it better on a second trip.

Finally, a cautionary note about Divi Resorts. Trying to "stay in the family", we booked and paid in advance for our overnight in Aruba at the Divi Village. After standing in the lobby for over an hour trying to check in, the desk staff announced to me and about 6 other parties, that, fully paid or not, they had no available rooms. No apologies, no drink vouchers while they tried to find other lodging, no nada. We were finally shuffled off to another hotel with a dismissal wave of the hand and a statement that overbooking was part of company policy. Buyer, beware.

Our first trip to Bonaire back in 1999 was a adventure also. We were really turned off by the mosquitos on the island. ( No one said that we should bring Off, Avon skin-so-soft etc ). We went for 2 weeks in November and Bonaire had lots of rain. We learned and have returned numerous times to the island to see the beautiful reefs that await us on our return. Your second trip and future trips will be better and better.

"It wouldn't stand out except that it is not the norm at other tourist-oriented locations"

And that is *exactly* why we LOVED Bonaire. It is NOT tourist-oriented. If I wanted touristy, I could have gone to Atlantic City, NJ.

Those of us who reside in the US are so fast paced, a small island like Bonaire is a true culture shock. Island time, my friend, is often a bit tough to get used to.

We've been to USVI, Puerto Rico, Cancun, Maui, Kauai, and Molokai. Bonaire was by far our fav. and Molokai was our second fav. We like off the beaten path places. Some people don't. It's a personal preference.

Edited to add my trip report.
http://www.oldbonairetalk.com/newsgroup/messages/1022/233381.html?1122128445 (Message edited by baileygreyhorse on July 26, 2005)

(Message edited by baileygreyhorse on July 26, 2005)

OOps, messed up my own edit.
Here's our trip report.

http://www.oldbonairetalk.com/newsgroup/messages/1022/233381.html?1122128445

"Those of us who reside in the US are so fast paced, a small island like Bonaire is a true culture shock. Island time, my friend, is often a bit tough to get used to."

Sorry, I should clarify. I don't have a problem with island time. In fact, such an approach is why we chose to visit Bonaire (the far end of Cayman instead of 7-mile, the outlying BVI's instead of USVI or Tortola, the outer parts of the Whitsundays, etc. You get the point.) Not being in a hurry is fine. Wait staff acting like a customer's mere presence is inconvenient is not. A smile goes a long way to making someone feel welcome. Perfect examples of how to do it were the bar staff at Chibi and Karel's. They didn't hover around the table and the glasses were not refilled immediately. The more relaxed approach was just that: more relaxing. However, when we would place an order or when the order was delivered, it was done with a smile and the impression that our business was welcome. These are the little things that build clientele. As I said in the original posting: if that is the direction they wish to go.

If I try and remain objective I can say until the winter snafu with Air Jamaica, air was great. Dining is top rate..not St. Barths but great...shopping slim. Beaches not. Snorkeling and windsurfing the VERY BEST. Infrustructure very good. Having traveled throughout the Caribbean and having lived on a third world island, Bonaire is fantastic. I do miss locally grown produce, lush foliage and long strands of white sand...I also feel like I am more in Europe or a Latin country vs a Caribbean nation compared to my previous home. All in all, I am happy with my choice for a place to live and chill.

Having been to Bonaire ten times, and going back tomorrow, I can relate somewhat to Michael's quandry about service. In most restaurants, the service is very good. Not great, very good. However, I had an experience at Richard's, about 4 years ago, that was the ultimate in rudeness. I heard they are much better now, and we plan on going back. My standouts for best service are as follows:

Donna and Georgios- especially if Donna is your server

Mona Lisa- they are just real good

Agentina Grill- especially if one of the family is your server. Pablo is the man.

Old Inn- she keeps her people moving

Rose Inn- I usually go back and help Jan bring out more beer, and the food. LOL

However, it's all an experience. LOL

And each opinion is just that, an opinion..each person has to make their own decision based on their experience..

Appreciate your honesty Michael, but I got to disagree with you on one thing - wildlife being more abundant on Cayman; I also have dove both Bonaire (for the last 5 years)and Cayman (once) and while there is bigger stuff on Cayman, I believe in terms of sheer numbers of fish and coral, Bonaire has Cayman beat hands down. Thanks for the honest and frank report.

Have a wonderful trip, James...sad news, however, Jan passed away in early June, I believe. Carole

Michael - thanks for your honest view of your trip to Bonaire.
What things would you do to make it better on the second trip?

1. Wait until December and use the direct flight on Continental from Houston to Bonaire. If that was unavailable, fly into San Juan and take American Eagle. Based on other people's responses, it might not be much more reliable than Bonaire Express out of Aruba, but at least it would be easier to book and obtain actual tickets myself.

2. Bring a small Playmate cooler as your carry-on when you fly, or a larger one as checked baggage. Filling it with perishables that you may or may not be able to find in a small market is optional. Bonaire doesn't have much in the way of restrictions for what you can bring into the country since the island agriculture is pretty sparse, and by doing this, you have a cooler to pack with cold drinks when you go shore diving. Needless to say, the cooler must be empty of food on the way back into the US, if you chose to bring it back with you.

3. Rent a vehicle as soon as I get there.

4. Take the vehicle immediately to the Cultimara supermarket, and figure out whether the freighter has been there recently. On our first trip to the market, the pickings were pretty slim. Then a cargo freighter docked at the south pier, and suddenly the Cultimara was fully stocked. Purchase plenty of beer, mixers, and fresh food.

5. Get shorefront accommodations with an on-site diveshop that can facilitate unlimited shore diving. Such an arrangement allows me to dive whenever I want to. I'm not terribly interested in organized boat dives, as I am afraid I have been spoiled by frequently bareboat chartering and being able to boat dive on my own schedule.

6. Get accommodations with cooking facilities. I'm a pretty good cook and don't mind a bit of cooking, so more often than not I would enjoy just throwing something together myself instead of heading to a restaurant. Save the restaurant trips for when we want to do something special. With regards to #5 and #6, the Divi Flamingo (where we stayed the first time) fit the bill for the most part. It wasn't perfect, and this, combined with the fact that I am nursing a grudge against the parent company (Divi Resorts) would make me investigate other accommodations on the island. However, I would go back to the Flamingo if I was not able to find more suitable arrangements.

As you might guess, most people would consider me a control freak (dive when and where I want, eat when and what I want). They are probably right, but after 40-plus years, I've learned to get along with myself.

To add to #4

More For Less has great produce

Progresso has good prices on beer and lots of other goodies

Warehouse has nice cheese and a bakery plus bulk items

Tropical Flamingo has a MA based brand called Berkeley Jensen. Decent food products. Also cereals and other necessities.

The Island Supplier also has super prices on many items such as juices and liquor.

Exito has great bread!

When I go to Cultimara, it's usually for baked goods.

We have so many shopping options.