Part 1

[Note: Bulk of report by Jean, added comments by Chet]

ACCOMMODATIONS
We were in Bonaire from Feb 21 to March 13. We always stay at Sand Dollar condominiums and this trip is our 4^th stay in the condo owned by Alan & Joan Zale. We are very spoiled by their spacious condo with Bari Reef right there and a great dive shop. We had made our reservations for 16 nights at Sand Dollar, and then got a letter telling us we had won 4 nights at Capt. Don’s (including accommodations and dive package for 2). We had dropped our name in the box at the Habitat booth at last years Our World Underwater dive show. So we added that onto our stay (the only question being “add-on to the start or add-on to the end”). Didn’t even consider cutting back on the 2 weeks at Sand Dollar, even though adding on used up most of our vacation for the year. The unit we won at Capt. Don’s was a Villa studio. We upgraded to a studio with a small kitchen because of my food allergies it is easier to eat most of our meals in (and cheaper too).

So our 16 days had been expanded to 20 nights and then in the fall American Eagle eliminated the Friday flight we were to come home on. Our only choice was to come home on the Saturday flight, one day later. So now we are up to 21 NIGHTS ON BONAIRE! AT THIS RATE WE’LL NEVER GO HOME! WAIT … I THINK WE’RE ON TO SOMETHING!

The Zale’s condo at Sand Dollar is very spacious (2 bedroom, 2 bathroom, 3 large closets) and has very good screens on the windows (including the balcony) and is on the second floor, so we left the windows open and had a nice breeze coming through, so didn’t need the airco after the first couple of nights. No mosquito problems at this condo!


Moving from there to Capt. Don’s Habitat studio was an adjustment. The studio we got had only one tiny closet and the studio was the size of just the larger bedroom at Sand Dollar. No place to stash our luggage (we have 3 large and 3 carry on size suitcases with scuba gear and cameras) and little space for scuba gear. We also travel with a Sea & Sea still camera with flash extension and a Sony video camera and Mako housing and need space for them to sit and dry.

About the second day the studio at Capt. Don’s had an electrical problem (see note below) causing the airco to crash, parts had to be ordered from Curacao and they moved us to a one-bedroom suite with a kitchen.

That was much better; had a large bedroom with separate airco and another closet. The Habitat aircos (in both the studio and one bedroom units) are nice because the condensers are outside and all that is inside is the fan moving the cold air. Much quieter than wall units.

The 1 bedroom suite has one airco unit in the living room and one in the bedroom. The mosquitoes happened to be bad when we were there because the rainy season was just ending. The studio had roll up screens that didn’t work (large gaps all around) and the one bedroom had no screens, so you had to leave the room closed up and run the airco. Jean is also very sensitive to bug sprays, so spraying the rooms was not an option. Both units had great views and patios (the second came complete with ‘lounging companion’.


Note: Actually it was much more than just the airco, the problems started with power off (blown fuses) in the kitchen area (including refrigerator) twice in the first day and a half.

WOODWIND SUNSET CRUISE WITH BTer’s
This for us was certainly the social highlight of the trip. We have met so many people over the years including a lot of BTer’s. To have 25 of them together on a beautiful Trimaran for a sunset cruise was great. The trimaran design is very stable. I love sailing but I get seasick easily. This ride was really smooth (and captured by the BeachCam as we went bye).


Ulf and his wife Dee offered the BT group this trip free. It was great. First thing they took a picture of the group on the dock. Then had everyone take off shoes and we went on barefoot. Plenty of room for all of us to sit on the raised platform on the deck and room to walk around the sides, over peoples feet or across by the sail. Dee and Susan (the “jolly elf” type helper) immediately started serving beer, pop, juice or water and then started a continuous round of pretzels, fruit and other great munchies. The sun cooperated and set at the appointed time. The weather was nice. We could see rain to the north of the island, but Ulf circled around south. Dee took time to chat with everyone. I was impressed with her warmth, friendliness and enthusiasm. I have heard that snorkeling with her is a wonderful experience and she helps you learn about fish species and behavior. She told me she loves helping new snorkelers become comfortable in the water, and helping them really enjoy it.

And the follow-up pizza party at Passa Bon Pizza was a great end to the evening.

Many thanks to Ulf and Dee and the Woodwind! (and Susan)

DIVING AND SNORKELING: That’s the main thing, right!?
We took it very easy the first few days because I (Jean) have a pinched nerve in my back and the flights down aggravated it. Chet ended up carrying my gear into the water for me, what a luxury! The man is a SAINT! It was either that or find a new dive buddy; and beside, I got a lot of extra experience at shore entries/exits. After a few days of one easy dive or snorkel a day, my back is feeling better each day.
We only did 17 dives in our 3 weeks, but also did 5 or 6 nice snorkels, I went windsurfing twice and we had the wonderful Sunset Cruise with the BTer’s on the Woodwind.

BARI REEF CREATURES AND FISH
The Zale’s introduced us to their friend Bill a few years ago who also owns a condo at Sand Dollar. Actually, since we go the week after the Zale’s in February, Bill (at the Zale’s suggestion) had to come and introduced himself because Alan and Joan had left before we arrived. He and his wife Prowphan are on Bonaire for 6 months a year. Every year Bill had been very helpful, last year he showed us where 2 resident greenish Frogfish were located (a large female and a small male). This year there were 3 different cool residents at Bari Reef. Bill pointed out the beautiful orange Seahorse. THE FIRST SEAHORSE WE’VE SEEN!

Thanks, Bill! There was also a frogfish this year. It was so camouflaged it was named “Fuzzy Rubble” because that was exactly what it looked like!

A face only a mother could love! Bill gave us excellent directions and we found her. There was also a very rare small Shortnosed Batfish, which was in the shallows out from the dock. We never found him and not from lack of trying.

On one of the dives I saw 2 Sharpnosed Puffers do a little dance. It looked like they would kiss and then both would back off and swim around and then come back and do it again. I watched for a little while trying to figure out if it was friendly or if it was 2 males trying to outdo each other. Anyone have any idea?

On another dive on Bari we saw the biggest grouper we’ve ever seen. It was at least 2 (or 3) feet long and the round girth was amazing! We both saw it and slowly circled around, as it slid into one of the coral covered barrels. Chet got a nice shot from the front while I looked at the tail sticking out the back of the barrel. Probably a tiger grouper, but the side I saw had an irregular shape of a grayish color from about the middle of the fish to the tail. I didn’t know fish got gray as they got older! We also got to see our first Green moray this year.


The New Dive Shop: BONAIRE DIVE AND ADVENTURE
We have had really good experiences with the dive shop here. Andre Nahr does an excellent job, and his staff is always friendly and enthusiastic. We have had questions answered about diving, cameras, gear, fish, whatever; they always want to help. The old dive shop was literally washed away with the Lenny storm surge. Alas, I still miss the Green Parrot which was also washed away. Now everything is new and very nice. It has a big storage room to hang dive gear and small outdoor lockers available. Nice new bathroom. Shady areas with tables for their classes. The New Dock is really nice and has 4 benches each with room for 2 – 3 divers to put on gear. There is a wooden slot for the tank, so you can totally gear up and get up for an easy giant stride into Bari Reef. Room at the end for 2 dive boats. Separate rinse tanks, 3 for gear and one for cameras. And fresh water showers on the dock. It doesn’t get much better than this.


SHORE DIVES
We did most of our shore dives at Bari. It does have the highest fish species count of any reef in the Caribbean, and obviously highest on Bonaire. So why go elsewhere? (Plus it’s so easy) Well, you do see different species and coral formations elsewhere. So our first non-Bari shore dive this year, was at Alice in Wonderland. I do like the double reef. Coming in we saw a big Eagle Ray flying along the shallows. They are so graceful and fast.

Then we saw some large squid. Up till now (this year is our 7th consecutive yearly trip) we have only seen squid up to about 2” size. Now we are looking at squid 6” or more. They change colors and look so cool. Also, a lot of Garden Eels in the sand between the reefs. Then a little closer to shore we saw 2 more that were even bigger. Humann’s book says up to 12” and these were up there, hard to tell under water. If I had a ruler do you think they’d hold still for a measure?

A couple more dives at Bari and saw the seahorse again. Got a nice shot of her on video moving from one rope sponge to another. The other times we saw her, she was hanging on with her tail, but her body just drifted in the current. I was afraid we’d stressed her, but I later realized that is part of her camouflage, she really doesn’t look like anything live, till you realize what you’re looking at! I’m glad the video camera doesn’t have lights; I’ve heard lights do stress them. Chet took a couple flash photos with his Sea and Sea. But that much didn’t seem to be a problem. We really are careful about not disturbing the sea life and avoid touching coral.


BOAT DIVES AT CAPT. DON’S
Part of the package we won at Capt. Don’s included 6 boat dives for each of us. We only made 4 boat dives. We only had 3 days to do them in, and one afternoon was spent moving to a larger room because of the electrical problems. I like how the dive boat is set up. The tanks are in slots behind the bench and you start attaching your gear as soon as you step on. They ask you to check the air pressure to make sure you have a good tank. One time we didn’t, but you just switch to the next tank. You giant stride off the back. Coming in they help you out then immediately remove your entire vest off your back, and remove the tank for you. Very efficient and easy. Their staff at Capt. Don’s is very efficient and business like; didn’t seem as ‘friendly’ as at Bonaire Dive and Adventure. They are set up for divers who want a fast pace 2-4 dives a day. Not our pace. Great if that is what you want.
I personally wouldn’t select Capt. Don’s for our whole vacation for a couple reasons;
1) We have been ‘spoiled’ by the Zale’s condo at Sand Dollar, and
2) The dive operation seems to be totally set up for the more “fanatical” diver than us.
a) They don’t have a ‘single’ dive rate, you pay the ‘unlimited’ rate if you dive once or 10 times a day
b) You need to know in advance to ‘sign-up’ for a no-dive day and turn-in your belt and weights, then get belt and weights back to dive again- if you forget to do this or decide during the day not to dive, you pay.
Now, I’ll sign up again this weekend at this years Our World Underwater, and happily go if we win!

Part 2
WINDSURFING
I made it out windsurfing twice. One of the times I tried to go we had a flat tire on a Sunday and couldn’t get it fixed until Monday AM (and I didn’t want to venture out very far without a spare). Anyway I was glad to run into Corney Ann, John and their friends Jeanne and Luigi. I have been windsurfing for 15 years but somehow have never gotten very good at it. I have a sailboard at home but it is probably 20 years old and not as good as the newer designs that I rent on Bonaire. So between the equipment and the usually steady wind I do a little better on Bonaire. Both times I went it was a little windier and gustier than I would like, but Corney Ann gave me some encouragement and I gave it my best. I just went for an hour both times and luckily it didn’t aggravate my back. I rented the largest starter board and a very small sail. Happily I did okay. I’m just happy to be out on the water.
Note: On Monday it took only about 20 minutes and $5 to get the flat fixed at Lisa Gas
Now Corney Ann, John and friends are real windsurfers. They are out there all day almost everyday they are there. Thanks for your encouragement Corney!

One of the mornings we got to Lac Bay early and took a walk to the end along the beach and then around to the pier and watched some birds. On the way back a woman walked toward us and asked for help. Her car had bogged down in the sand and she couldn’t get out. She was a dentist from Venezuela and spoke a tiny bit of English and I speak an equal amount of Spanish. I was happy we managed to communicate a little and she gave me her card. She had put rocks under one wheel, which was counterproductive. Chet is used to getting out of snow, so getting out of sand took him one try after he moved the rocks. It was fun to help her and just goes to show anything can happen in Bonaire. There are so many people from so many countries.

FLIGHTs
The flight down was cramped and long as usual. To add to that I have a pinched nerve in my low back. Even on painkillers, I was hurting. So on the layover in San Juan before getting on American Eagle I put one of those heat packs on my low back. We got boarded and I try to get interested in a crossword puzzle. Unfortunately I had already finished the book I had brought. They announce that someone from maintenance has to come out. It was minor they just needed a signature on a check off. No air-conditioning. A little air moving on their fans and that sardine can very full of passengers starts to get HOT. Okay the heat pack is not a good idea. Decorum be damned, I reach in and pull it off. Meanwhile the maintenance guy is changing a small light bulb by the cockpit door. 30 minutes later they announce that it is taken care off. Next thing coming off the speaker is that we have been sitting here so long that legally they have to add fuel before taking off. 15 minutes later we are off the ground, the airco is starting but it is still HOT. It was an hour into the flight before it got down to livable temperature. Another Yuck! for American Eagle.

The flight home had no snafu’s but a scheduled layover of 5 hours in San Juan. And this is the best we can do from Chicago. To fly Air Jamaica we have to get up at midnight to get to O’Hare (also, wouldn’t get back home until around 1:00 am). Well the layover does give me time for a massage at the airport. Every airport should have massage available. My back is doing better. But I don’t want to be headed home!

CAMCORDER FLOOD
We have a nice Sony Digital Camcorder PC120 and a Mako housing with a monitor back; a nice 2” monitor screen on the back instead of the little viewfinder that I can’t see anything through underwater. I got video from five dives, a snorkel and a couple land shots.

Then we set off to do a shore dive at Andreas II, we heard there were 3 small sharks there. We went to get a look. We haven’t seen sharks yet. The gate is locked at the site so you have to carry gear down the hill. Chet does most of the carrying then carries gear out to me in the water because of my back. We get into the water and the camcorder won’t come on, so I hand it to Chet. He holds it up and the dreaded bubbles are coming out around the seal. I immediately hold it up out of the water and we swim in. About ½ cup of water has flooded the housing and the all-electronic digital camcorder has had salt water sloshing on it. Quickly back to the room, but there isn’t much we can do except dry off the obvious. We can’t even open the camcorder and take the tape out because that is electronic too.

We never did find out why it leaked. We had carefully checked the o-rings each dive and lubricated. We’ll never know. Luckily we did have a rider on our home owners State Farm Insurance. Sony wanted $1800 to fix the camcorder we had paid $1400 for. Since the PC120 only works in the Mako designed for it and PC120s are no longer available new; State Farm offered to upgrade us to the PC330 and get a new housing for it; or give us that amount in cash. We decided we didn’t need the upgrade, the only difference is improved still picture quality (the 1.5 Meg. of the 120 is fine for quick ‘snapshots’). The video is exactly the same. So we took the money and bought an almost new PC120 on eBay and had the housing repaired (and insurance money to buy a second used PC120 for backup). Just got the housing back this week. The nice thing about the Mako design it that most of the electronics are in the handles, which are separately sealed. If we had had the regular back with the little viewfinder it would have been only minor damage. But we have the monitor back, which is all electronic and it needed at total rebuild. But all’s well that ends well. The ‘flooded’ PC120 still works in the video tape modes (doesn’t work in still picture mode), so now we use it as a VCR for our mini-DV tapes.

We still got some wonderful video before the flood and I did see a shark on another dive (shore dive at Capt. Don’s).


BEER CANS

Chet collects beer cans, so every year he looks for unique cans and brings a few home from Bonaire. I decided to sell a couple on eBay that he had duplicates of. I figured someone in the U.S. might like a couple nice Polar cans, the ones with a bikini-clad girl on each can. The first bid I got was for $.99 from Brazil. The shipping would have been about $12. Then got a couple bids from a U.S. bidder. Then the winning bid ended up going to a bidder in Netherlands! for $3.25, he will be in N.Y. next month so shipped to there. Interesting. Maybe we’ll bring a couple more back next year. Maybe we can make enough to pay for Chet’s beer supply while in Bonaire anyway!
my comments:

MICHAEL’S STORE
As always Michael’s Chat N’Browse was great to have next door to Sand Dollar. Chet’s company made him get a cell phone so they could get through to him. The phone came with one hour of calling time to U.S. So I made a few calls. Michael had a good price. We also used his computers to email chat with my son and friends. Between calls and email and diving, no time to miss friends and family.

DINNER AT GIBI’S
Gibi is a gracious host. I had the best fish ever there. I only made it to one of the dinners. Had a good turn out. Glad Diver Debbie started the traditional Tuesdays at Gibi and good to see it keep going. It started as a Feb/Mar thing, but I’m really happy to see it going year-round now. I finally got around to trying the Kabrito Stoba this year (it’s GREAT!), but when I saw that the Iguana soup came with an intact tail, I decided lizard soup wasn’t part of my diet plan.


CONCLUSION
Missed seeing Josie this year, dates didn’t line up. Hope to see you next year.
Also, missed seeing Darlene and Tom (but at least Corney Ann made sure they got the ’04 Feb/Mar BT’ers button); and was extremely saddened when I read about the loss of such a beautiful daughter.

If you have read this far, thanks for reading.

Overall a great trip. Ditto! Diving is always wonderful. Three weeks is not enough. Thanks to Jake and Linda for hosting Bonaire Talk.

Jean & Chet

Jean and Chet, really enjoyed your report. Love to get that fix of vicarious vacationing. :-) In June we will match your 7 years in a row habit. Incredibly, we still have some unexplored shore dive sites. Ah. Can't wait....

Hmmm... Does someone have a copy of the BT Woodwind cruise group photo you mentioned? That would be fun to see!

What a Great report so far, looking forward to part 2. Loved the photos.

Scott

Interesting collection of beer cans, we can tell where you took the photo. Are we going to see them when we return? Glad you liked the re-screening job. It really does so much for the unit. Thanks for the kind words about our condo.

Hey Chet, why your report so wide?

Niki, Scott, Alan & Joan:
Niki- I know we all posed for the pictures, but I'm not sure who all took them.

Scott- If you look close, you'll see that both parts are there; if I find time during the next week, I may post a few more pictures.

Alan & Joan- We try to make sure everything we move gets put back the way it was; and I brought those cans home for my collection (I just need to watch-out that Jean doesn't try to sell them off on eBay.

Hi Seb,
I don't know, but it must have something to do with the "cut'n paste" from MS Word; these posts arn't coming out so wide. Or maybe its because I posted some pictures 'side-by-side' that came out a little bigger, I'll have to experiment some time.

It's the cut and paste I'm betting, Chet. Or the pictures,;-)

Great report Jean and Chet!
Thx 4 sharing.

Super report & great photos. Thanks for sharing. My wife & I had 2 wonderful weeks 1st of March and I hope to get a report up here soon.
Seb & Chet, What resolution is you computer display set to Chet? If it's set to a high resolution sometimes that will create something to fit your screen but will be wide on lower res screens?
Thanks again,
Rod Pervier

Loved your report and photo's . I hope to see your critters in a few weeks. So THAT's the Zale's place. BEAUTIFUL !I've past it a million times to snorkel in front.Masha danki!

Chet and Jean-
I LOVED the trip report! Great to see you two again (however brief). I know.... wasn't the Woodwind cruise the best?!? God bless Dee, Ulf, and Susan. We loved it. Still talk about it. I am crazy with homesickness for Bonaire. Six weeks flew by in a flash. Can't wait to see you all next time I'm there.

Kate