Trip Report 11/20-27/00 (Part I)

I arrived and returned home without incident via American/ALM, all baggage in tact and on time. I have always had good luck, but generally travel on a weekday, which must be the key. Stayed at Lagoen Hills Townhomes – new construction and adequate for the budget traveler, however, shelving, storage space and closets are minimal and with two people it would have been very cramped. Ziplock Freezer storage bags are a must to keep things fresh and prevent the ants from invading. This is true no matter where you stay and the grocery is not open on Sunday, so plan ahead. They change the towels daily, whether you are there or not, dressed or un-, in bed or otherwise……but they don’t take the garbage away. It ended up on the front porch to avoid smelling up the place. And it made me think a lot about garbage – all the garbage we generate as tourists, all the plastic bags and bottles, no recycle program……I hope there is an incinerator on the island. If not, I think there should be measures to minimize the garbage, but I think that no matter where I am. At night, I missed the sound of the ocean lapping at the shore and found the location somewhat inconvenient – staying here requires a car – and it is not on the way to/from anything but Lagoen. Morning and evening will bring swarms of annoying little gnats to torment you without mercy and if the wind dies, the mosquitoes converge on exposed flesh.

I dove through Habitiat, which is where I have stayed on past visits. Since it is the beginning of busy season, I think they accommodated me only because I have a friend who inquired on my behalf and could not get the time off to dive and play while I was there. Their first allegiance is to the on site guests, which is understandable, and I tried to only sign-up for boat dives not filled by the guests. Nonetheless, I was able to get in a few boat dives and I appreciate the convenience and efficiency of this operation as well as the friendliness of the staff. The boats are in good repair, the storage lockers/rinse tanks are conveniently located, drive-up access for loading tanks and gear is good and the divemasters do their best to insure that guests enjoy themselves and dive within safe limits. They were operating 2-3 boats at each departure (8:30, yawn, 11 and 2) and most were full. Although this is the beginning of busy season, town appeared to be remarkably quiet……I found myself wondering where everybody was hiding (and if I was missing something????)

A brief shore dive from Habitat got me reorientated and I was thankful that the docks were back in operation since my visit last June. Had a peek at the octopus in front of Baby Doc as he shyly peered out from under an overturned mooring, patiently awaiting my departure. Also, spotted a baby Trunkfish – always an amusement to me with the clumsy way they maneuver their square-ish little polka-dotted bodies . Snorkled down to the reef cam that afternoon from Capt Don’s, since I had no shore access (a very long way)….once I got there I surveyed the area, creating a good visual imprint of the sight to provide mental enhancement capabilities once I was again confined to the view from my office chair. Discovered a 3 mil suit makes me spring to the surface like a bobber from 8 feet unless I’m kicking like a madman; prevented me from hanging at the reef cam long enough to greet anyone with a bubbly smile. Although it was a long way to snorkle, there was an incredible amount of life to see in the rubble – dinner plate sized Peacock Flounder, an Eagle Ray up close and personal (WAY COOL!!!), Chain, Sharptail and Goldentail eels, a very large Coronet Fish hanging at Small Wall dressed in a very dapper blue and brown plaid outfit and all of the other colorful life so typical in these crystalline waters. Don’t be fooled into believing there is nothing to see in the rubble – just look!…...after a wave at the street cam and “hello” to Jake and Linda, I decided we ought to grab a bite to eat. And that was the beginning of the end of a great vacation.

The fateful meal, a cheese Clazone and salad laced with a healthy dose of Salmonella, was eaten while I waited (somewhat impatiently, with lots of anticipation) for a night dive at Jeff Davis. With Capt Don’s animated stories filtering through from the adjacent room I enjoyed the last meal I’d eat for three days. Jeff Davis was a great dive, thanks in no small part to Paula and Chris (Evergreen, CO), who were kind enough to lend me an extra light – mine had decided it would only stay lit for 2-3 seconds after I turned it on – worked fine during the day when I didn’t need it! This particular site was teeming with the tiny fat-lipped smiles if Balloon Fish everywhere you looked, and one of the biggest Porcupine fish I’ve ever seen; made me wonder how big it would be if it puffed. There was also an Orange Ball Corallimorph displaying bejeweled tentacles – uncommon and always a special treat. Absent were the usual abundance of Spotted Morays skulking about the reef, and I am told that the Spiny Lobsters and crabs are away on vacation at depth. Evenso, it was a great dive and I smiled contently while watching the stream of fairy-dust trailing from my fingers as I waved my hand through the darkness.

By 0100 I was becoming aware that foreign intruders had launched an invasion and I was under attack from within…….as I lay half-awake, suffering immensely from abdominal pain, drenched in sweat, listening to the whirr of the ceiling fan, all I could think was “I want to die……” Well, I also pondered the sins of my forefathers and wondered if a former, great leader of the Arawak people had recently run into Montezuma in the netherworld and engaged in lengthy discussions pertaining to revenge and biological warfare..…..a feverish mind congers up strange notions. Twelve miserable hours later, I forced myself into the shower through sheer stubborness and vowed I would not surrender my vacation to a group of renegade microbes. I picked up a couple of friends and headed to Baby Beach for some surfing, with a stop to drop off Michael’s Stuffing Mix on the way. Not being a surfer, I watched from shore and entertained myself trying to corral little white sand crabs (also known as thumb splitters) and curiously poking around in the beach rubble to see what had washed ashore. I must admit being pulled through the surf by my ankle attached to a surfboard seems like about as much fun as …..food poisoning. I’m in no rush to try it. On the way back from Lac Bay, I discovered that four surfer-dudes and a driver will pop the tires on a tiny Toyota….next time they walk! Later that eve we headed to Lagoen for star-gazing and solitude, however, being that there are ghosts out there, and one of our party was mighty superstitious, we abruptly piled back into the car and headed up to the monument in Seru Largu (where the ghosts couldn’t get us) to take in the view – it was pretty spectacular. Evidently ghosts are not fond of altitude.

After another sleepless night of GI distress, fever and chills, my muscles felt like they had been beaten with a wooden cane, my joints were painful and I was weak and dehydrated…..but I have an obedient body and it complied when I compelled it to carry gear, blow bubbles and have fun; albeit with much grumbling and muttering along the way. My stubborness was rewarded! A bright orange Frogfish perched proudly atop an orange Elephant Ear Sponge at Something Special – I think he’s been marching around on top of that sponge for at least two years and although his mate was around someplace, I suspect her camouflage was not in order and she wasn’t up for visitors. Must be this sponge is prime Frog Fish Real Estate. When we arrived at the sponge, there was another couple there with camera in hand working together to get a good pic – he was maneuvering to get a good angle and she was watching, pushing and nudging as necessary, to make sure he did not bump and damage the surrounding reef. I was impressed and hope they were able to compose a great shot! All the while, Mr. Frog Fish marched around on stubby little “legs”, confident in his concealment, smugly looking back at us. Something Special is as I remember it – resplendent with garbage in the shallows.

MissAdventure in Paradise (Part II)

After a rest, I headed to Jibe City to windsurf, sadly to discover that my wobbly legs and shakey arms were barely able to pull the sail up out of the water; I only lasted about an hour before I had to give up (especially since there were no boards available equipped with seats and crew)……if you make it over to windsurf – avoid the “dark spots”; they are full of needle sharp, spikey things that will inflict severe puncture wounds in the soles of your feet……..wear booties or you’ll be digging things out with tweezers! Although I had hoped for several more days of windsurfing, my body just said “NO”! And that was that.

Hawksbills and Green Turtles greeted me at Jerry’s Reef (Klein), as well as two Banded Coral Shrimp poised on the rim of a small Azure Vase Sponge – I hope my buddy’s pic turns out….it was definitely a Kodak Moment. This site offers brilliant color! During afternoon, I made my way over to Boka Onima and hiked across the barren landscape of the North Shore, marveling at the red succulent plants that grow prostrate on the volcanic rock and the snails that had hunkered down for the day. Trekking out there by myself produced a very strong desire to strap a heavy pack on my back and set off on a long walkabout. Thinking that my appetite had returned, I went to Zeezicht to enjoy a meal of Curried Conch - an aromatic melange of yellow curry and tropical fruit served over rice that has been a favorite of visits past.- only to discover food was still not appealing. The following day Ol Blue came through with a.Midnight Parrot Fish (a personal favorite) and a small brown Seahorse surveying his surroundings safely secured to the base of a rope sponge…. Indeed, I was lucky enough with my limited itinerary to see all the critters everyone hopes for. I spent half a day with Caren Eckrich of Sea & Discover learning about and observing behaviors, exploring touch-me/touch-me-not creatures, talking about the sea grass ecosystem; I learned how to get the cleaning Gobies to hop onto my hand, watched a Lettuce Sea Slug turn from blue to beige as he crawled along my finger and saw the mating behavior of Blue Headed Wrasses. I hope that Caren’s business is successful and that she is able to engage school children in discovery programs to develop interest in diving and facillitate certification of more locals in the future.

By the last day of my trip, I was beginning to feel like myself again – I ended with an easy shore dive at La Machaca – my first time to see it in daylight – then headed to Lac Cai where I snorkled in the sea grass and mangroves with the throbbing beat of the Sunday afternoon party resonating in the background. Although the sea grass ecosystem is not “beautiful” in reef terms, it is teeming with life, fascinating in it’s diversity and an essential breeding area for Lobster and Barracuda. Also one of the few places to see upside-down jelly fish on Bonaire. My afternoon came to a close at Lac Cai reclined on the sandy point, watching the sun sinking slowly below the horizon in a watercolor sky, with the syncopated rhythms of a local band carried along on a gentle breeze. It was a moment when everything seemed right in the Universe .

I came to Bonaire with a jam-packed itinerary and hopes for lots of fun and laughter with a good friend..…I ended up struggling to make the best of my short visit and limited energy. Remaining upright and enjoying the underwater environment seemed like a monumental achievement. There just wasn’t anything left over for painting, photography, mountain biking, kayaking, hiking or sailing…..all of which I had planned for. Occasionally, plans just have to be abandoned without remorse. I felt bad for the friend I had come to visit – under the circumstances, I wasn’t much fun and we had both been anxiously anticipating a good time. We sat that last night at Willemstoren Lighthouse, counting shooting stars, contemplating constellations and watching a cruise ship sailing off to the East. It is a place I would go to often if I lived there – but for locals, it is too far. It marked another ending and reminded me of the end of all my childhood summers, sitting on the shore of Lake Michigan, staring up at the night sky with the waves crashing at my feet……and knowing that a long cold winter lay between me and digging my toes into the warm sand again.

Thanks for the report, Dara, hope you are feeling better, too bad about those nasty microbs invading you.

Dara,

It is quite obvious that the discomfort you felt from the Salmonella did not affect your ability to share your joy of Bonaire through your literary talents. It sometimes takes a trip report like yours to refresh the memory of us who live here as to why we moved here in the first place. We tend to get wound up in the hustle and bustle of running businesses and trying to make things work instead of stopping to smell the roses (or ocean as it were). Thanks for allowing us to enjoy your trip vicariously through your wonderful writing. Hope you're feeling better now and we look forward to seeing you on Bonaire again very soon.

And thank you for the stuffing mix...Michael

Dara, I can relate regarding the Salmonella, having a recent trip to the Keys almost ruined by it. My doctor did tell me however the most cases of Salmonella need 24 hrs or longer to gestate. Could it be that the fatefull meal was consumed elseware?

We are heading to Bonaire in January. Since I have a severe case of hypochondria I like to plan ahead. What is the medical remedy for a Salmonella infection?

Kevin, 24 hours is the long end for onset of Salmonella infection - most Food Micro authorities site typical onset at 8-12 hrs, I've seen 6-24 mentioned. I'm a Food Scientist and fairly knowledgeable about foodborn pathogens - we in the US food industry spend a lot of time and money insuring that packaged, processed foods don't contain these bugs. So this is something I think about frequently. Fresh food prep at restarants is another thing altogether and a risk no matter where you are. Undercooked foods or storage at improper steam table temperatures are the most common source of problems. Most bugs are killed by thorough cooking, but some toxins are not destroyed (Staph.and Botulinum). I've also had a more severe case of Salmonella infection before and recognize the symptoms. The only other meal I consumed that could have been the culprit was at least 36 hours prior....I'm pretty confident it was the cheese filling in the Calzone or the salad dressing.

Peter, there really is no "medical remedy", although things like Immodium and analgesics can help with the symptoms. You just have to "ride it out". A good preventive measure before any international travel is to consume lots of good bugs (lactobacilli and bifidobacterium) in the form of yogurt, or pills if you don't like yogurt. After any GI distress, it is also important to re-establish the healthy bugs ASAP. I don't think anyone should be concerned about eating/drinking on Bonaire - I believe my incident was an isolated occurance that could have just as easily happened at home.

For more information on foodborn illness check out these sites:

http://vm.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/qa-topfd.html
http://www.wellweb.com/nutri/preventing_food_poisoning.htm

Dive, eat, drink and enjoy yourself.......but take along some Immodium just in case.

Dara:
You have given us all a wonderful trip report.I am sorry that the trip did not turn out as you had hoped. Still, it is obvious that somewhere along the way, operation manager/research scientist types certainly learn how to write.Best wishes for your NEXT trip to Bonaire!

Dara,
I thought that doctor in the Keys sounded fishy. He insisted that I couldn't have gotten sick from a "local" resturaunt. I think that's why he stressed the long end of the timeline. I wish I knew then what I know now. Any tips on the types of food one might avoid? They always say don't drink the water (except on Bonaire) but are particular foods, like chicken or eggs etc. more prone to infestation?

The CSPI has a pretty good article from last year about food safety. The "Meet the Bugs" section has a chart with symptoms, time, causes, etc. One important one to learn about is Ciguatera which has symptoms like numbness which can be confused with DCS.
http://www.cspinet.org/nah/10_99/fsg_introduction.htm

Kevin, I am very sensitive to water and have had bad reactions in places which were deemed to be safe and did not bother the average person. However, I steeled myself and tried the Bonaire water. Amazingly fresh and clear, the best tasting water I have ever had outside of my friends' well in rural Massachusetts! Even better than Poland Spring, which is what I use on a daily basis at home. Have fun in Bonaire, but then, you really can't help it!