While this was our 6th trip to Bonaire, this is our first time posting a trip report. Because this discussion board was helpful for us to plan our trip, we felt it only fair to share our experiences.
We had not been to Bonaire in over three years. Struggles with ALM costing us precious days (not just hours) on previous trips, and having some of our dive gear "permanently borrowed" (our own fault, left it out to dry overnight at Lighthouse Beach Resort) had left us a bit sour. However, the shore diving and Klein walls finally lured us back.
And it was a great two weeks!
We flew Air Jamaica for the first time (Philadelphia to Montego Bay to Bonaire). While the first leg was full, the flight left and landed on time. The leg to Bonaire was only about 25% full (flying on Friday), and we landed ahead of schedule - with all our luggage!
Louise of Happy Holiday Homes met us at the airport. We had seen the signs for HHH while on previous trips, but it was the info contained on these boards, plus a real good package deal including apartment, truck, and diving, that led us to staying there. She helped with getting the truck and led us HHH.
We've stayed at Divi, Sand Dollar (2) and LBR (2), but HHH is our favorite so far. The one bedroom apartment had two ceiling fans and good cross breezes that negated the need for A/C during the day, though we did use air conditioning when we closed up the apt. to sleep at night. Kitchen had all needed appliances and the living room had comfortable furniture, TV and a boombox with CD/cassette. A washing machine is available to guests which we used, allowing us to pack fewer clothes.
But what differentiated HHH from previous accommodations, and something we'd never really thought about before, was the set up for rinsing and stowing dive gear. This is particularly convenient if you are doing a lot of shore diving, which we were. You can park your vehicle right at the front gate of your apartment. Each "Home" has its own fenced-in front patio with tile floor, outdoor table, chairs and chaise, surrounded by a small garden area with plants and flowers. All have their own large tubs for rinsing gear, as well as an outdoor hose. Pegs (probably 12 of them) are mounted on the wall for hanging gear to dry in the afternoon sun. What a pleasure to have dry gear each morning (even the boots), and, even after two weeks, wet suits that didn't have that funky smell. In addition, also on the front porch is a locking closet so gear can be transfered the three feet to storage for overnight security. Most of the other guests just left there stuff outside overnight, but after our experience at LBR, we used the closet. There are also clothes lines and another outdoor hose on the patio behind each unit.
Each morning we were visited by the local donkeys who would hang outside the fenced yard if you fed them (we did), or leave you alone if you didn't. We truly enjoyed our stay at HHH and will be back.
During the two weeks we alternated shore diving and boat diving each day. As for the "lock car, leave car open" debate while shore diving, we left the car and windows open leaving only towels, shirts, hats, and sunglasses inside. No negative incidents occured during our entire two week stay. We made 31 dives and spent over 25 hours underwater. The reefs appear to have made a good recovery after Lenny, though there is still lots of evidence of its damage. Saw the usual critters, though there seemed to be more drums, both juvenile and mature (and big!) than I ever remember seeing, and fewer and smaller grouper. A sharp tailed eel entertained for nearly 15 minutes one day on its hunt for food. We also the first coronet fish we had seen in nearly 8 years, and then saw a second and third on consecutive dives (at Margate, Bloodlet, and Windsock, so it couldn't have been the same one).
Bonaire Photo Tours allowed us lots of freedom once they noted that we were experienced divers. Chris, our captain, was great as was his crew, Michael, Susan and dive-master-in-training, Jim. The boat is the only one we've been on in Bonaire that does two-tank morning dives, and Chris took the divers wherever we wanted to go - North, South, or Klein. Punt Verplank (now accessible only by boat thanks to a new shore development that may or may not ever be completed), Bloodlet, and Carl's Hill were highlights.
But probably the best of the diving was the Lac Cai guided shore dive we did with Bas. It is for experienced divers only as getting through the surge to the reef and back is a bit tricky. After swimming thru 30-40 large tarpon on the way out, we were met by a squadron of five eagle rays as we swam out over the reef. During the dive we saw at least a dozen green moray eels, some free swimming. And we finally learned where all the big grouper are - the north side of the island. The dive never went below 45 feet, and our bottom time was an incredible 1:34.
As for restaurants, we enjoyed old favorites Mona Lisa and Capricio's where we had the best, albeit not inexpensive, meals during the week. Newcomers for us were Casablanca and Raining Fishes. Casablanca serves very large portions at very reasonable prices. Never having been there before we ordered appetizers which resulted in most of our entree going home with us in a doggy (donkey?!) bag. Note to self: donkeys don't like tuna. Raining Fishes was the only restaurant we went to that was packed by 7:00 pm, and they have a lot of tables. The service was very good, even with so many guests, however, based on all the positive comments I've read on this board, I thought the food only average, tho reasonably priced.
Another restaurant we really enjoyed was The Lost Penguin. Open from 8:00 am to 6:00 pm, this six month old cafe serves incredible breakfasts all day at low prices (to-die-for eggs benedict for $5.50) and hamburgers, sandwiches and salads in the afternoon. We've seen several restaurants at this location, two blocks south of the Cultimara market across the street near the curve, come and go during previous trips to Bonaire. I really hope this one makes it.
Can't comment on the nightlife as we were generally asleep by 10:00 in order to re-energize for the next day's diving.
The flight home on Air Jamaica was also on time and without incident.
Our faith in Bonaire has been restored thanks to on-time airlines, good looking reefs, and our own common sense. We will be back soon.
Dave and Jan
Somerdale, NJ |
By Dave Kalberer (New BonaireTalk Poster - Post #1) on Thursday, August 14, 2003 - 8:56 am: 
